Day 149. Thursday, 10th October. From Playa Dos Amigos to a beach north of Loreto.

Rising slowly, as we weren’t in a hurry, I watched the water birds, while Dennis cooked porridge. We are parked close to the beach with a small lagoon on our left. Here there are large grey herons, small grey herons, large white herons and a large brown bird, like an ibis, with a curved beak. Perched out in the ocean, on some old woodwork, are pelicans and all sorts of gulls.

Walking along the shore are two odd looking ‘spiky’ herons. I wonder if they are young grey herons?

Last night we had a visitation from a tiny bat. It settled on the vent netting above me 3 times. I think it liked the copious supply of mosquitoes and insects that congregate there, trying to get in to feast on us.

I have to say I have found the first few days in Mexico a bit of a culture shock. Camping in Canada and the US has spoiled us. There are regularly inexpensive washing machines at camp sites. Sites are, on the whole very well maintained and clean, and they function as they should. It is, generally, easy to get whatever provisions you need. Here it is rare to get hot water, toilet paper is non-existent, water in basins is also unlikely and the facilities are dirty and shabby. I have found getting good, fresh fruit difficult too. Living with the dirt and dust is also challenging.

Having said this, for months we had no campsites or facilities at all in Russia, the Stans and Mongolia and had to do all our washing by hand and shower ‘in tent’. We will get used to it again. In fact today, I felt we were getting more into the vibe. The scenery in the Bay of Concepcion was gorgeous, the people are friendly and it is starting to feel very laid back.

After a cold shower, which wasn’t unpleasant as it is very hot, we left Playa dos Amigos at 11.50. We headed for Mulege where we stopped to do some shopping. I asked a gentleman in a real estate agency, who spoke perfect English, where I could get some bananas and other fresh fruit? He said it was difficult, but if we passed the fire station and turned left, we would come across a red painted store. They should have fruit in the refrigerators at the back. Rounding the corner we came across a bright orange painted store and thought this must be it. It was and I managed to get some edible bananas and apples.

Setting off again we soon reached the beautiful Bay of Concepcion. We looked down on the most gorgeous white sand beach with turquoise water. There were a number of people camped there. Mick had said to us, a few days ago, “Dont stop at the first place, there are plenty of others”. 

So we continued. We passed another 4 or 5 lovely bays and then came to one with a spit of sand you could walk across to an island. It looked sublime so we drove down. Sadly it was scruffy. A woman in a filthy dress and apron came towards us to collect pesos. We took one look at the makeshift facilities where the doors were blowing open and which were so decrepit they wouldn’t shut and thought this is not for us. Turning around we exited sharply.

Unfortunately this was the last white sandy beach. Should we go back? Something we never like doing. Stopping for some lunch off the road under some trees, we decided to keep going and try and find a beach near to Loreto. 

Another stop to buy some beers and some bread and milk, which I had forgotten earlier.  We found a place north of Loreto. It doesn’t have the white sand and turquoise colour of the Bay of Concepcion, but it has a nice enough outlook from our parking place and is close to Loreto where we will stay with Tracy and Jeff tomorrow and leave the Land Rover. Tracy and Jeff are former residents of Whistler and great friends of Sarah & Tim. Jayla their daughter, is Charlie’s best friend.

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