Day 123. Monday, 30th December, 2024. From a beach on Route 255 to Puerto Natales. 186 Miles, 299Kms

Leaving the Beach.

We were surprised to find, on waking, that it was 08.10. We had slept well. However, we had been woken in the night, not by the alarm from the shack behind us, as we feared, but by a thunderstorm and rain. On looking out of Poki into the tent, I was surprised to find it was rather wet inside. We hadn’t expected rain and so had not pitched the tent to make allowances for this. We can mitigate the water coming in, if we are properly prepared.

It was a very dull and chilly morning. A complete contrast to yesterday, which felt quite summery. After breakfast we took down the tent and spread it out to dry. There was a car parked outside the shack and obviously someone in residence. Dennis went down to apologise for tampering with the alarm. The guy had removed the tape and rag, but accepted Dennis’s apology and they shook hands and he pointed out another sensor in the window, which was the one that was picking us up!

On the Road

The scenery was rather dull. Acres of rough pastureland with huge estancias and the occasional large herd of sheep. I don’t know how these farms can be profitable. The estancias have many workers cottages and some appear like a small village. The only income seems to be from sheep. With the price of wool being so poor in NZ it is barely worth shearing the sheep, it must be the same here. The only income must come from the meat.

We came across a fox eating roadkill in the centre of the carriage way and a squashed skunk. I would like to see a live one. In the distance we started to see snowy mountain peaks. We are soon back into the countryside of lupins. All gorgeous colours lining the road. There are also swathes of yellow. It is only a weed, but looks pretty.

Once on route 9 heading north, we stopped for lunch in Morro Chico. A popular stopping place. It was busy. Some Italian cyclists sat on a neighbouring table. We passed several cyclists during the course of the morning, commenting that we would not like to cycle on these boring, isolated and windy roads.

The lady owner was coping with waiting all the tables single handed. She spoke excellent English. As our supplies in Poki were just about exhausted, we had toasted sandwiches, French fries and hot drinks.

Puerto Natales

Arriving into the town we overlook water with the snowy mountains getting closer. The town is busy, full of tourists. It’s the closest town to the Torres Del Paine National Park, which is apparently the most visited National Park in Chile.

We need to recharge my phone, re provision and get some more Chilean pesos. First we find an Entel shop for recharging the phone. After waiting 15 minutes to be served, I am advised they can’t do it. I need to go to a supermarket or pharmacy.

There is a supermarket next door, so we head there next. It’s busy and the fruit and veg. department are badly depleted. We manage to find most things we need, except fruit. I try to recharge my phone, but encounter the same problem as in the past. They will only sell me a monetary amount and I can’t buy data only.

Next we find a fruit and veg. shop, it has a much better selection than the supermarket, but doesn’t look very fresh. I don’t think either have been restocked since before Christmas. I do find whole oats though, so this is a bonus.

Last is a pharmacy for the phone recharging. I pay a 5000 peso fee, which has to be cash. Then I can top up with a data package. Or, I should be able to. After lots of trying and another 15 minutes, I am told the phone is blocked, as I need to be registered. I advise I am already registered. The pharmacy tell me they cannot help, I have to go to the Entel office!!!!

Back at Entel, after another 10 minutes, I’m told it’s a foreign phone and registration only lasts a month. This has expired. I ask to re-register it. At first I’m told it can’t be done. Then after some arguing, I’m told there is another phone shop down the road that can re-register it. By this time Dennis has come to find out why the procedure is taking so long. He gets cross. He thinks the Entel girls are just fat and lazy and are being unhelpful. We leave, after some strong words, with the situation unresolved. (Jen’s being diplomatic, I lost my rag, and when leaving the office and shutting the door, the alarm went of…:))

Finding the camp, which is in the town, it is still quite quiet. iOverlander warns it can be very busy and there are few flat camping spots. We pick the best spot and set ourselves up. It is already nearly 18.00, so we cook a nice chicken dinner. After which we go to the communal room to use the campsite WiFi.

After finding a number of bills that need paying in my inbox, I deal with those and then set about writing the blog. A film is then shown, projecting onto the wall behind where we are sitting. We move and it is noisy, so writing is difficult.

This campsite is used by people who do the famous hikes in Torres Del Paine National Park. Many are backpackers with small tents. They base themselves here as there is a full kitchen with cookers, fridges etc and there are lockers for them to leave their excess gear while hiking. I didn’t count the small tents, but there are a lot. By the end of the evening we have been joined by another 9 camper vans of varying shapes and sizes. Many are rental vehicles, not true overlanders. So, it is a busy place and most are young people.

There is the most amazing sunset looking from the camp over the lights of the town and the water to the snowy mountains. Really spectacular.

By 10.30 I haven’t finished the blog. We’re tired, so it will have to wait for tomorrow. Though that may be a problem if we can’t get wifi at a campsite or cafe.

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