Leaving Saint-Pair-sur-Mer
After we left Saint-Pair-sur-Mer we headed down the coast to Mont Saint-Michel, the iconic Abbey on an island. We have cycled here before. It was unbelievably busy. If it is this busy in May, however busy is it going to be in the summer! We wanted to find a place to park for lunch, but it is all very organised controlled parking. We entered a car park and the ticket machine advised the first 30 minutes were free, but the next charge was EUR 16! There was a queue behind us, so we couldn’t reverse out. It meant a very rushed lunch, so that we could exit within the 30 minutes. We did it right on time.
Heading to Vannes
We were heading towards Vannes, near Auray, to meet Penny and Bill. Penny and Bill are the parents of Sarah, who is married to my son, James. Does that make them parent’s in law? They were staying with their other daughter, Kellie, French husband Louis and their two children, Meredith 5 and Finn 3. Gorgeous children who switch from French to English seamlessly. Fantastic! Best to learn another language at a young age.
Lunch in Auray
We decided to camp near Vannes and thought being on the coast it would be easy. Not so. Many Municipal campgrounds are now closed, or have been taken over by private companies, mostly chains, who have converted them to sites for “Camping Cars” (camper vans) only. (Covid lockdowns being the death knell.) They offer no facilities, other than a secure place to park. Entry is by machine, no reception with a welcoming human, and it is necessary to be totally self sufficient.
The next municipal camp was long closed. We located another busy looking camp. On inquiring, we were advised it was full, due to the large event which was taking place during the week. We subsequently learned, some sort of boating/ yachting event which was taking place in the Golfe du Morbihan.
By now it was getting late. We were referred to two more campsites which may, or may, have space. Finding the nearby Municipal camp, the reception was already closed. It was heaving, but we managed to find a place. It was, in fact, a free night, as next morning no one was at reception so we exited without payment.
We had arranged to meet Bill and Penny on the medieval bridge in Auray. This is a very pretty town and we had a very relaxed lunch of galletes (savoury pancakes). Bill and Penny said Kellie and Louis would like us to come and stay with them overnight. A surprise party was being organised for Louis’s birthday.
La Gouarde
Kellie and Louis live in a lovely old Manor House in La Gouarde which they are restoring. Louis has been involved with the French entry in the Americas Cup sailing event and many friends are from the sailing world. Including an Aussie. Phil, who took charge of the barbecue. Phil now lives in France, with his French wife and daughter and his parents were also over from Australia and at the party. The evening was most enjoyable with Kellie and Louis’s friends and family. Lots of young children. Beautifully behaved and playing together outside until late in the evening.
Jen, Finn, Penny & Skipper the amazing dog.
Meredith and particularly, Finn, loved the Landrover and explored it in detail. We left late on Thursday morning. It was a holiday in France so many people had taken Friday off as well to make a four day weekend. The roads were really busy, but fortunately much more so in the opposite direction to which we were travelling.
Again finding camping was not so easy, but eventually we found a very nice camp at St Clair, near Plesse. The weather had improved in the afternoon, so we managed to do some washing, although it was midday the following day before it was dry.
Pouzauges
We continued to head south east towards Poitiers, but once again finding camping wasn’t easy. One location was closed, where we came across an Englishman among a yard full of old cars. (Dennis loved it. There was a Bentley Continental which was, supposedly worth a small fortune, if restored. It’s been sitting there uncovered, for a year.
He advised he had given up the campsite after Covid, plus his wife being ill. However, he did direct us to another site in Pouzauges, by a lake. It was half campsite, half small lodges and quite expensive. EUR31. No WiFi, and no ordering bread in the morning.
This morning we drove into the centre of Pouzauges, which is quite pretty. First to find a boulangerie for bread, then to the tourist office to use the WiFi, then to a Tabac where we sat on the pavement for coffee/hot chocolate. The weather is still good and hopefully is going to continue.
Camping near Ruffec
Tonight we are camped at Le Rejallant, south of Ruffec. I’m writing this in the noisy campsite bar. There is a football match going on, which Dennis and all the men are engrossed in. Paris Saint Germain and Inter Milan.
Again we had fun finding camping. The first municipal camp we came to, we could not gain access to. One needed a pass from the town hall, but it was closed. The next was a lovely small chateau campsite. There was a sign telling us to go to the neighbouring property to pay. We attempted to find the right property. We were directed to the ‘large house’ by a couple gardening in the next house. Driving up to the Chateau, only to find an American domiciled Frenchman, from California. We stopped for a chat. The property had been in his family for 200 years. He just comes over in the summer and was bemoaning the amount of work in the upkeep of the property. Dennis offered to buy it and he wanted us to sign…I quickly dragged Dennis away, as we were directed us to another large house for the camping.
Here we found an elderly gentleman trying to get his sit-on mower going. He also was not in charge of the campsite. After this we gave up. At our third attempt we found the camp we are at now. It is perfect and we may stay another day tomorrow, as we have lots of laundry to do.
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