Dennis mentioned there was lightening flickering when we went to bed last night, early before 9pm. Well, it came closer and turned into a lengthy thunderstorm. Storms seem to move off very slowly here. Fortunately, although the thunder and lightening were intense, the rain wasn’t too hard and the Caranex stood up to it.
Once the tempest had ceased, I hoped to get to sleep. Things only got worse. The wind came back with a vengeance. The tent flapped and rattled and Poki was swaying madly. No chance of sleep. Luckily though, soon after midnight, it subsided and we were able to get some rest.
This morning dawned without a cloud in the sky. Chilly though. We packed up at a leisurely pace and were off a bit after 10am.
Once again the scenery was spectacular. We can’t make fast progress though, as the road is narrow in places and stony. We wind around, climb up and down and cross many dry rivers, and ford those which still have a trickle of water running in them. We are on Ruta 40 a somewhat iconic road, as it runs from one end of Argentina to the other. Here in the north it is only gravel and we are very remote.
All morning we see just a dozen other vehicles on the road. We pass a couple of tiny villages, but with no chance of getting further supplies. Food is running low. The map shows the Ruta 40 as a red road, a major road and asphalted, so I was expecting progress to be faster and to reach somewhere with shops. I’m also concerned re our diesel supply, but Dennis thinks it will be fine.
I thought we would reach the border with a Chile in 2 days, we’ll be lucky to be there in 3.
Mid morning we entered a really stunning canyon. The road actually runs along the dry river bed. It is only passable in the dry season. Apart from the fantastic rock formations, there are cacti and huge clumps of a pampas type grass.
After leaving the canyon the scenery changed again. An area scattered with huge boulders and rocks.
Today humans have been vastly outnumbered by about 1000:1 by llamas. They are really sure footed. We watched one nibbling shoots on a shrub high on a cliff. This afternoon we also saw a group of ostrich/emu like birds, rheas.
We reached the tiny hamlet of Liviara. iOverlander advised there was free and fast WiFi here, so we stopped. There was WiFi, but it wasn’t really fast. I managed to check my emails etc, but Dennis didn’t have much luck with yesterday’s blog. He could only get 2 photos to load, very slowly, but it has been posted and he will add more pictures later.
The road improved for a while from Liviara. It had been widened and graded. This region has several large mines and it was obviously to allow better access to and from them. There were many lorries on this section. As it’s gravel, it is also very dusty. Keeping clean is a nightmare.
Tonight we are camped at a location just before Coranzuli at a thermal stream. It is quite warm, but by Rotorua standards, only tepid. While preparing dinner a motorcyclist arrived. He was Argentinian, but from Iguassu. He was travelling with 2 companions and they were looking for a camping place. He spoke good English, but after a chat with Dennis, rode off to find his companions. They must have found a better camping spot.
We are quite high again, over 4,100 meters. You can tell you are high up as even the little exertions make you short of breath.
Hopefully, tonight will be a still and dry night and we can get on the road reasonably early in the morning.
Blase re scenery?
I fear we are at risk of becoming boring. Talking endlessly about the magnificent scenery. I think we are becoming a bit blasé and immune to the spectacle, actually. I do wonder as we pass through these wonderful mountains, canyons and valleys with their incredible geological features, how many millions of years they must have taken to develop.
How many periods of climate change must they have experienced? How many civilisations have come and gone during their development? How does this relate to our current situation regarding climate change? The climate does change. Is our burning of fossil fuels really the culprit for what we are experiencing now?
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Nobody has replied to your question yet. Maybe it will take a little more time for the mindset to change on the current climate change fiasco.
Hope you return to a lower altitude soon x
Hi Bridget. No one wants to comment, in case what they say is considered politically incorrect!
J
Spent a couple of frustrating hours catching up with your route on my, a bit basic, Sth American map. Couldn’t find all your stops, even cross referencing google maps. Never mind, you seem to know where you are going. Well almost. Black Caps lost T20 to SL, Oz got dished by Pakistan. Keep on keeping on you intrepid duo.
Yes, can undesrand your frustration re towns on maps. Sorry about that. Many are not even on our maps! And right, we mostly know where we are going…forward…mostly ;).