Cycle Tour and Chiang Rai
Cycling was gentle as the terrain is completely flat, taking us to a temple, paddy fields and around the countryside surrounding Chiang Mai. Lunch was included and delicious. Food has been excellent, so far. Embarrassingly I managed to fall off, when we were stationary! Not sure what happened. Loss of balance or knee or hip giving way. Doesn’t bode well for UK summer cycling.
On our departure in the back of a covered utility, the grandmother sprayed us with a hosepipe, wetting us all. Our transport was provided with a full water tub and two buckets for us to retaliate against any water attacks. The water festival, where everyone gets wet, goes on for the entire three day New Year celebrations.
Back to the hotel and a quick shower, we were then off on an afternoon minibus ride to Chiang Rai, where we visited the impressive White Temple. Then on to Chiang Khong, near the border with Laos. Here we stayed in a guesthouse. Adequate but certainly not luxurious. In the evening we walked to a local restaurant for a group meal, getting a soaking en route. After dinner Dennis and Prov played table football and pool. I won’t reveal the scores, but let’s just say Prov won both.
Impressive white temple Chiang Rai, Northern Thailand.
Border Crossing to Laos and Slow Boat ride up the Mekong River
It was worth departing early at 7 am to a nice restaurant overlooking the Mekong for breakfast and then to the border. Being early it was a simple crossing as we were virtually the only people there. A quick stamp out from the Thai side, then on presenting a paper copy of our e-visa on the Laos side, finger prints and a photo and we were through. Another bus ride took us to our boat boarding point.
Loading onto the third boat from the left.
The Mekong is a very different river to how I had imagined it would be. Winding and rock strewn with strong currents. It is very smooth though, as it is such a long boat. It is now mid summer and the hottest month, so very dry, Lao farmers are burning the vegetation on the hillsides. The atmosphere is very smoky and murky. We pass herds of water buffalo, cattle, goats and the occasional pig. As well as through farming, income is earned by gold panning, so we pass many people at the riverside searching for gold.
Murky Mekong River view
Panning for Gold.
We are heading for Luang Prabang, a distance of just over 180kms. However, progress is relatively slow, so we need to break the journey. This we do at a local dirt floored village where we spend the night. The villagers feed us an en excellent dinner, we have a brief tour of the village and some local entertainment. This includes a bamboo dance, in which some of us participate. I, of course, mess it up and nearly break a fetlock.
For our sleeping arrangements we are divided into three houses. One for ladies, one for men and the other for the three couples in the group. In our couple’s house, we are also sharing with some local ladies and babies, but we have six mattresses with individual mosquitoe nets lined up behind a curtain.
The climb up to the village from our longboat.
Bamboo Dance.
Our Couple’s sleeping arrangement.
It was a terrible night. I woke thinking it was morning and started getting dressed. I thought people were getting up. They were, but just heading to the outside toilet. I shook Dennis, as I thought we were oversleeping, only to be told “What on earth are you doing. Go back to sleep”. Looking at my watch, it was 1.25. I didn’t sleep another wink. I think the dogs barked and village cockerels crowed all night.
After breakfast we ventured back down the hillside to the boat. The captain and his family live on board and cooked us lunch on board on both days. Again delicious meals.
In the afternoon we stopped to visit the Pac Ou caves. A walk up many steps to the higher cave. Later in the afternoon we reached Luang Prabang, where I thought it well worth it to pay to have my bag carried up the steep river bank to the waiting mini buses.
View over Mekong from Pak Ou Caves
Luang Prabang
Our ride into Luang Prabang was slow due to the new year celebrations and water fighting. Despite putting up the plastic sides to our mini bus, we still managed to get splashed.
Luang Prabang street Celebrations.
After checking into our accommodation at La Maison de Laos our first task was to arrange to get some laundry done. Our lovely guide, Beam, I call her Sun Beam as she is always smiling and never phased by us, took us on an orientation tour of the city centre. As it’s New Year, restaurants are not taking group bookings, so Beam suggested we split up after she had pointed out various eating places, Dennis, Prov and I ate a very bony fish meal together.
We have 3 nights in Luang Prabang and the third day is a free day. This has given us time to catch up on some sleep and relax a bit (and it’s given me time to write the blog).
Yesterday was pretty full on with visits to the Ethnology Museum where we learned about the different tribes who make up the 7+ million population of Laos. Next we visited the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre. Ock Pop Tok means East meets West as it was set up by 2 English and Lao ladies. Here we learned about silk production, dying and weaving. Then on to lunch with a local family, where we were greeted by a Baisi traditional welcoming ceremony. After another lovely lunch we learned how to make noodles.
Costumes in the Ethnology Museum
Dyed yarn and weaving scarves, table runners etc
During the Baisi Ceremony we were wished good fortune and blessed by these cotton bands wound around our wrists.
Off for a swim.
After the noodle cooking lesson we set off into the hills to the Kuang Si Waterfalls. These were very busy due to it being New Year. During a swim/dip in the pools, Dennis forgot he was wearing his glasses and lost them in a pool’s murky depths. On our way back to the minibuses we passed the Black Bear Rescue Centre. These bears have been rescued from hunters and cannot be returned to the wild.
Today is our free day and Dennis and I visited the UXO Lao Visitor Centre this morning. There is a display of some of the over 2 million tons of ordnance the USA dropped on Laos in 580,000 bombing missions, one every 8 minutes for 9 years. Laos is the world’s most bombed country and is still suffering from the unexploded munitions which cause accidents to this day. Up to 80 million cluster munitions failed to detonate, leaving a deadly legacy. It was pleasing to see New Zealand is one of the very few country’s supporting munitions clearing.
Cluster Bomb
This afternoon we rested for a bit and I’ve managed to catch up with the blog. Once recovered took a walk around the town and ventured to the Phousi Temple via 380 steps. It must have been 37deg but the view from the top was worth the sweat. Tomorrow we take the bullet train to Vang Vieng.
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