Our roadside camping spot proved peaceful. A couple of cars passed, after we first parked, then there was no other passing traffic. It rained heavily during the night and we had to close the roof vents. We were awake early. I was worrying the alarm wouldn’t go off. It did and we were up straight away.
Trying to get dressed in a Landrover, isn’t easy. It was eventually accomplished after having my bra on back to front and two legs down one trouser leg. Having packed up all our bedding, we moved forward to the dock entrance. There were 4 other vehicles waiting and promptly at 06.45 the ferry manoeuvered to the loading ramp.
On the ferry
There were finally 6 vehicles on board, including Poki and we were underway on the stroke of 07.00. A young member of staff came to collect payment, 13,000 Pesos. About £11 or NZ$22. Not bad for a 2 hour journey. This ferry is apparently subsided by the government.
We stayed in Poki and cooked our breakfast porridge and had tea. It was a smooth journey and we arrived promptly into Caleta Gonzalo at 09.00. I expected it to be a reasonably sizeable place. Not so. We drove straight off the ferry onto a small gravel road. There were 2 or 3 small buildings with no sign of life and nothing else but forest. The road appeared brand new, but there must have been a track here before. It had obviously recently been upgraded.
It was a beautiful drive through thick forest with flowering trees, fast flowing streams and brooding mountains with low clouds swirling all around us. Once we neared the settlement of Chaiten the road became beautifully smooth and asphalt surfaced.
Chaiten
Chaiten was smaller than anticipated too, with limited facilities. There were two small supermarkets, both closed. I was dying to “spend a penny” but we couldn’t find any public toilets. We found a cafe and I ventured in while Dennis stayed in Poki and worked on yesterday’s blog. I ordered a coffee. What arrived was a large mug of hot water, a small pot of instant coffee powder and a large pot of sugar. Not exactly what I was expecting!
Getting back on the continuing surfaced road we progressed through beautiful scenery. The roadside is canopied with huge leaves. Gunnera, I believe. It is growing everywhere. In places we ride beside lakes or fjords. There are waterfalls, tumbling streams and rivers. The water is a greyish, blue, aquamarine colour from melting snow. We make good progress. Later in the afternoon we are back on gravel winding up and down through forests.
Shortly after leaving Chaiten, we almost get ourselves lamb for dinner. A small, brown sheep decided at the last moment it wanted to cross the road in front of us. Dennis swerved and braked hard. Somehow we managed to miss it. Later in the afternoon a small dog did a similar thing. We managed to avoid it as well. Good driver 🙂
The forests have been beautiful. Blossoms everywhere. Late in the afternoon we come across purple lupins lining the roads. Yellow broom is also abundant.
We have been surprised by the number of cyclists. So many today we lost count. The Carretera Austral has to be a ‘must ride’ for log distance cyclists.
It has rained almost the entire day. Sometimes it stops for 5 minutes and the sun tries to shine. At about 17.00, we think it’s time to call it a day and find camping. Unbelievably it has stopped raining. We can’t locate anyone at the campground but decide to set up camp.
Camping in Manihaules
The Caranex is wet in places. Being up on the roof it is exposed to the elements. We have just set everything up when a lady comes along to meet us. She is very chatty, in fast Spanish, and wants to show us all the facilities. The toilets and showers. There is also a kitchen and lounge area, where we could light a wood burning stove. We thank her, but tell her we are self sufficient.
After dinner, I try and book the next ferry we need to take from Puerto Ingenerio Ibanez to Chile Chico. The website tells me the ferries are full for the next 4 days, but to contact the office. I send them a WhatsApp message and get a prompt response telling me I can buy the tickets from an address in Coyhaique tomorrow. This sounds promising. We will keep our fingers crossed we can get a ferry on Saturday.
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