Day 38. Saturday, 5th October, 2024. From Hotel Kelly, Las Lomas to Hotel La Posada Nortena in Lambayque. 180 miles or 289kms.

Leaving Las Lomas

After cooking our porridge in Poki, we checked out and went to find an ATM for some Peruvian currency, somewhere to purchase a Claro SIM card and a supermarket to restock with provisions.

As Dennis said yesterday, the place has a very different feel to Ecuador. Less affluent. The side streets are all sand, not surfaced. Finding an ATM was easy, but it would only give me a maximum of 400 Sol. Just over GBP80.  Enough to keep us going for a few days, I hope.

They are everywhere and carrying everything.

Next the search for a shop selling SIM cards. Our first attempt was unsuccessful, but we were directed to a shop where we could purchase one. I have to admit after yesterday’s performance, I felt a bit of trepidation. It couldn’t have been easier, though. None of yesterday’s need for passport details and thumb prints. I just purchased the SIM and topped it up with 10GB for a month.

Las Lomas has quite a pretty main square surrounded with streets with small shops. We found a greengrocers with a huge selection of fruit and veg and bought a couple of bag fulls. Including papaya, pineapple, bananas, avocados, limes, peppers and tomatoes. 15 sol or about £3. I’m sure this was the tourist price, but I was happy to pay it.

We searched for a supermarket. I don’t think such a thing exists in Las Lomas. It’s all small shops and stalls. Finding a general sort of store I went in with my list. Having left my phone with Google translate in Poki, I had to practice my best Spanish. I managed to secure milk, eggs, pasta, rice, oil and 14litres of water. Not quite everything on my list, but most things.

Heading South

Sugar trains

We left Las Lomas at about 11.00. It’s a good road and traffic was light at first. Being flat we are able to make good progress, not having to constantly climb and descend via hairpin bends.

It feels as if we are in another world. Apart from the temperature change, the surroundings are much poorer. Areas where the property can only be referred to as slums. It is also very untidy with litter everywhere, despite signs saying ‘Do Not Litter’

As we drove along there were many groups of people walking along the roadside. I wondered if they may be heading north for the US border – a long way to go! Dennis said they must be pilgrims. Some had various religious paraphernalia and one was staggering under a huge wooden cross. It would be more productive if they were to pick up the rubbish they had to walk through, on the way.

As we headed south the scenery became more and more desert like. At first with some scrub, but then just an expanse of flat sand. Not camping country.

It was quite difficult to find shade to pull over for some lunch, but we did manage to find a small tree. It is really the least attractive scenery we have experienced. We were also buffeted by a strong cross wind.

Hotel La Posada Nortena in Lambayeque

We hoped we could find a place to wild camp, but there was just no shelter, or hiding from the road, in such flat, desert conditions. So, tonight we are in another inexpensive hotel. 70 sol, or about £14. It has gated parking at the front, all the necessary facilities and is clean. 

This evening I will plan our route for tomorrow. There is apparently an interesting museum here, the Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum. We’ll go there first before we head south in the direction of Trujillo.

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