It is a very long time since we have camped using our older, New Zealand Land Rover. Not since before we started our round the world trip in 2018. Our friends, Noel and Dee, with whom we have camped several times in the past, suggested we might do another trip. We quickly agreed and the decision was made to meet in Whanganui on 26 January. No indication of where we might go or for how long was discussed.
Whanganui
Noel and Dee drove north from their home in Lower Hutt, near Wellington, while we drove south from Rotorua. Timing it perfectly we both arrived at around 4pm. At the place Noel suggested we meet, beside the Whanganui river, there were many signs forbidding freedom campers. In New Zealand it is now compulsory to have a plumbed in toilet to camp at sites without facilities. Our Land Rover is not that luxuriously well equipped.
So, the decision was taken to head to the other side of the river and the Top Ten Holiday Park. This had everything a holidaying camper could possibly need. A swimming pool, children’s play grounds, toilets and showers and a very fully equiped kitchen. Obviously, this comes at a cost, NZ$104 for the four of us.
Deciding to head into town for dinner, we all went in Noel and Dee’s 2 seater van. It has blackened windows so from the outside it could not be seen that Dee and I were seated on the bed. Having paid for drinks at the bar at the St John’s Club, we then discovered the restaurant wasn’t open on a Monday evening. What to do? We headed to the town centre and found a cheap and cheerful Thai Restaurant. The food was surprisingly tasty.
Overnight my sleep was not the most comfortable. We were very snug and warm, but having thought my mattress was blown up too hard it actually needed more air. Having consulted the map after breakfast we decided to head north up the coast.
Waverley
Our next stop was Waverley where we found an interesting cafe full of racing memorabilia. Waverley has a race track and is renowned for producing a famous horse, Kiwi. There is a statue of Kiwi next door to the cafe. Among other races, Kiwi won the prestigious Melbourne Cup. After coffee and muffins we continued north.
Kaupokonui
Seeing a sign for the “world’s best campsite”, we decided to investigate. The sign might be a bit of an exaggeration, but it was a very pleasant spot at Kaupokonui. We were just setting ourselves up when the lovely lady in charge of the camp drove up and gave us a $50 refund. As we had both vehicles on just one site, she said she wouldn’t charge us for two sites.
Having been sitting in the vehicles all day so far, some exercise was required. We walked across a bridge, along a river to the beach. The blackest sand I think I have ever seen. It is iron sand and is used in the production of corrugated iron. As the tide seemed to be coming in we returned to the camp and did our own catering. As we have a garden full of vegetables at the moment, I had bought tomatoes and cucumbers with us, so made us a Greek salad, followed by plum tart. Plums also from our garden.
In the morning, we gathered around the map again to plan the day’s route. Deciding to follow some smaller roads flanking Mount Taranaki (formerly Mount Egmont), we set off for Egmont National Park and Dawson Falls.
Once entering the park and leaving farmed land, the road narrowed with spectacular vegetation. Ferns of every description, trees decked with lichens and a myriad of climbing and parasitic plants. The road seemed very quiet, but when we reached the car park it was packed.
A visitor centre gave us information relating to the park, with an example of an old hiker’s hut. Totally exposed, held down by ropes and snow and ice covered in winter. Disappointingly, an advertised cafe did not exist, so Noel and I missed out on what would have been a welcome morning coffee.
First we climbed a viewing platform before walking down through the forest to the falls. Coming back up was somewhat harder, so refreshment was required. We brewed tea and munched on some fruit.
Oakura
Continuing back down around the flanks of the mountain, a very pretty ride, we headed towards New Plymouth. We stopped short of the city, finding another beachside camp at Oakura. This was very popular and busy. School holidays continue this week, so there are still many holiday makers.
We found a quieter spot at the end of the camp. Having passed a pizza restaurant just before we entered the camp, we decided we would venture there for dinner. Arriving at about 6.30 we were advised there wasn’t a free table until 8.00. That was too long to wait, so plan B had to be implemented. We had passed a Guacamole caravan on a lawned site on the opposite side of the road. This was serving Mexican food and providing large mats and cushion seating on the grass. We had nachos and burritos.
New Plymouth
Next morning we set off for New Plymouth. Heading for a car park by the sea front, it was closed due to road works. Instead we found a meter near the town centre and a nice little cafe for coffee and muffins nearby.
Noel and Dee had only arrived back from Australia a day before we set off camping, so Dee had had little time to prepare and wanted to find a supermarket for some provisions. A New World was in easy walking distance, so having purchased something for dinner, we set off to visit Pukekura Park.
The park is in the heart of the city with an immaculate cricket pitch after the entrance. In 2007 it was named as one of the six best small cricket grounds in the world. A natural oval surrounded by terraces backed by exotic vegetation. The park itself consists of 52hectares of dense native bushland walkways, freshwater lakes and streams, native and exotic tree collections, fern gullies, sweeping lawns, hidden dells and formal flower beds. We spent the day ambling around, finishing at the Tea House for ice creams.
Onaero
Our last night was spent at another beachside camp at Onaero. Once we arrived at our camping spot we were surrounded by children. They are absolutely fascinated by our Land Rover. They see it as a real old army vehicle.
Another beach walk finished the day. Here the cliffs are eroding with a couple of stacks now out to sea. A river also provides swimming opportunities for the campsite with a large shallow pool and beachside.
We were very lucky with the weather, having a warm sunny week. Noel and Dee had to be back for Saturday, so it was just a brief trip. Lovely to enjoy some of the beauty of New Zealand though. Next year we plan to do another trip this time to the South Island. It has been far too long since we have been south.
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